Today’s blog post will focus on cultural appropriation. Cultural appropriation is the act of one cultural
group seizing control of the symbols, traditions, customs, concepts, or items
of another cultural group (for a refresher on culture please go here). Cultural appropriation should not be confused
with cultural exchange or assimilation.
Cultural exchange is when cultures equally share elements of each others
culture with the other in order to mutually learn and benefit from the exchange. Cultural assimilation occurs when individuals
from one culture either voluntarily or involuntarily (typically out of forced
need) adopt the cultural elements of another culture. Cultural appropriation is about the differences
in power and control among different groups within a culture in which one group
is the dominator or oppressor and the other group is the exploited or oppressed,
leading to the trivialization of and loss of cultural identity of the exploited
and oppressed group.
This description most likely sounds incredibly damaging
(because it is) and scary (as it should be), but how does one identify cultural
appropriation? We have all most likely
seen an element of another culture, found it appealing, and adopted it without
meaning to cause harm or insult. There
are differences between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation. One can identify cultural appropriation in
many different ways. The first way is by
examining how specific cultural elements (e.g. symbols, traditions, customs,
concepts, and items) are identified and labeled among various groups,
particularly between majority (those with power) and minority (those with
little to no power) groups. When both
groups practice the same cultural tradition or utilize the same cultural symbol
but one is praised while the other is censured cultural appropriation is
occurring. For example, as Amandla
Stenberg points out in her video about cultural appropriation of African
American culture braids (aka cornrows or dreadlocks) are an integral part
of African American identity as they are used to maintain the health and vitality
of African American hair but are often identified and labeled very negatively
among African Americans who style their hair that way. Caucasian individuals, on the other hand,
such as Kendall Jenner (Figure 1), are praised as being fashion forward for styling
their hair in braids. This difference in
labeling the same act between groups, in this case African Americans (who are a
minority group in the United States) and Caucasians (who are the majority
group), is an example of cultural appropriation and not cultural appreciation. One can also identify cultural appropriation in this scenario by the labeling of the hairstyles between Caucasians, who have braids, versus African Americans, who typically have dread locks, cornrows, etc. These terms refer to the same hairstyle but bring forth different emotional responses and images.
Figure 1: Kendall Jenner being praised for "cornrow" fashion statement |
Cultural appropriation can also be identified based on the
harm caused to a minority group through the misrepresentation of a group’s
culture. Recent examples of this type of
cultural appropriation occurred at the 2012 Victoria’s Secret Fashion show
where model Karlie Kloss wore a Native American headdress with her bra and
underwear ensemble (Figure 2) and in 2014 when Pharrell Williams wore a war
bonnet on the cover of Elle Magazine (Figure 3). These symbols of Native American culture were
misappropriated in their use in the fashion show and magazine cover as they
misrepresented the purpose of symbols.
These symbols are sacred to many Native Americans and represent the
completion of specific rites of passage and represent specific earned
statuses. The true purposes and values
of these Native American symbols were not taken into consideration when they
were utilized in the fashion show and magazine cover, and Native Americans were
justified in their criticisms of their misappropriated use. More on this topic can be found In this video.
Figure 2: Karlie Kloss demonstrating cultural appropriation of Native American culture at the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show |
Cultural appropriation also often leads to profiteering by
members of the dominant groups who are the perpetuators of cultural
appropriation and the continued exploitation of the oppressed groups. This occurs when members of the dominant
group utilize or take cultural elements from the oppressed groups and earn
income from those cultural elements, while the exploited cultural group members
do not receive the same if any profits either when they complete the same task
or as royalties from the profiting dominant group members. For example, among many Americans yoga is
identified as a trendy fitness routine that also nurtures the mind and spirit. Yoga has become quite the commercialized enterprise across the USA as a result. What many people do not realize, however, is
that yoga has a spiritual meaning and cultural connection among Indians (of
India). It was banned in the 18th
century by the colonial British government, and it was practiced as a means of
rebellion against the colonial British rule and as a form of cultural pride by
many Indian yogis thereafter, which is how it exists today despite efforts to abolish it. For many the commercialization of yoga is
seen as offensive, particularly as it now represents young, trendy, and white
culture, not Indian culture, identity, and resilience and yoga’s original spiritual and cultural meanings
have been lost. White yoga instructors
gain praise, popularity, and profits by claiming they were trained by
traditional yogis either in or outside of India, but Indians who practice yoga
themselves are not as valued as whites when they practice yoga and/or try to teach it to others, leading to monetary exploitation of an
element of Indian culture.
Figure 3: Pharrell Williams & Cultural Appropriation of Native American Culture on the Elle Magazine Cover |
Last but not least, cultural appropriation also continues
and spreads racist stereotypes of cultural groups. This is manifested primarily around Halloween
when individuals are encouraged and in many ways expected to don costumes of
identities that run counter to their daily or regular identity. A popular Halloween costume is the “sexy
Geisha” costume (Figure 4), which spreads ideas of Asian women being
sexually provocative and available. Many
individuals who don this costume do not realize the harm they are causing Asian
women who
report that they are often sexually harassed by men who buy into this
stereotype. This is just one of many
racist stereotypes that occur on Halloween, which has further negative effects
on minority groups who report further discrimination and prejudice against them
throughout the remaining 364 days of the year.
Figure 4: One of many examples of a "sexy geisha" costume that is popular at Halloween |
So how does one practice cultural appreciation and not
cultural appropriation? Should we not
ever adopt elements of another culture so as to not offend or continue to
oppress members of the minority groups?
No. To say that is to take an
extreme view point that does not solve the problem of cultural appropriation
and instead directs attention away from the problem and toward reassuring
majority groups who are-intentionally or unintentionally-practicing cultural
appropriation. What one can do, however,
is learn about the culture(s) and the meanings associated with the cultural
elements that one would like to utilize.
Upon learning about the cultural elements one can make an informed
decision as to whether or not the cultural element should be adopted and how it
would be most appropriate to do so. If
you meet a member of that culture and he or she takes offense to your adoption
of that cultural element do not get defensive.
Instead, first apologize and if possible engage in a respectful dialogue about why he
or she is offended and what specifically you may have done to offend them. You may feel that your research into the cultural
element you just adopted was thorough but it may not have been and it may not
have been entirely accurate, particularly if you utilized improper
sources. Consider the situation a
learning experience and act appropriately from the lesson(s) learned from that
experience. Expect to make mistakes
(because no one is perfect) but be open to learning and changing as
necessary. There is nothing wrong with
cultural appreciation, but that is because it is very different from cultural
appropriation.
Learn more about being a solution rather than a problem here by following this example by Jessica Sanchez and her company.
Learn more about being a solution rather than a problem here by following this example by Jessica Sanchez and her company.
Bibliography:
Johnson, M.
2015. “What’s Wrong with Cultural
Appropriation? These 9 Answers Reveal
Its Harm” Everyday
Feminism
Stewart, D.
2012. “Karlie Kloss as Half Naked
‘Indian’ and Other Absurdities from the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show” Jezebel
Welsch, R. and L. Vivanco.
2015. Cultural Anthropology: Asking Questions About Humanity. Oxford University Press.